
Plan the
boring bits.
The 60-second version: take the AREX train from Incheon (all-stop ₩4,750, Express ₩13,000), buy a T-money card at an airport convenience store (about ₩3,000) and load it with cash, install an eSIM before you fly, and put Naver Map or KakaoMap on your phone, because Google Maps still can't give walking or driving directions here. Before you even board: through 31 December 2026, visitors from 22 countries including the US, UK, Canada, Australia and Japan need no K-ETA, and anyone without one files the free e-Arrival Card online. The T-money card taps you through every subway, bus and most taxis, and the subway answers almost every 'how do I get there' question until around midnight. That's genuinely 90% of Seoul logistics; the rest is below.
Entry: K-ETA and the arrival card
K-ETA: through 31 December 2026, citizens of 22 countries and territories can visit without applying for Korea's electronic travel authorization: Australia, Austria, Belgium, Canada, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, Macao, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Poland, Singapore, Spain, Sweden, Taiwan, the UK and the US. That is not every EU country — Ireland, Portugal and Greece, for example, aren't on it — so if your passport isn't listed, check k-eta.go.kr (you may need a K-ETA or a visa) before you book. Traveling in 2027? Check k-eta.go.kr again closer to your date.
Arrival card: fill in the free e-Arrival Card at e-arrivalcard.go.kr in the three days before you land (a submission is valid for 72 hours). Valid K-ETA holders are exempt — which means travelers from the 22 exempt countries above, who don't hold a K-ETA, are exactly the people who should file one (or apply for a K-ETA anyway, which also skips the arrival card).
Getting from Incheon
Three real options. The AREX Express — ₩13,000, 43 minutes nonstop from Terminal 1 to Seoul Station (51 from Terminal 2), guaranteed seat — is the move when you land during the day and stay near Seoul Station's Line 1/4 transfer (looking at you, Myeongdong, two stops away). The all-stop AREX costs ₩4,750 to Seoul Station on a T-money card (about an hour) and calls at Hongik University Station on the way (₩4,650, under an hour) — which makes it the better train if you're staying in Hongdae, no transfer needed. Add ₩600 to either fare from Terminal 2.
The second option is a private transfer, and it stops being a luxury in exactly three cases: you're a family of 3–4 (the math beats four train fares plus a taxi leg), you land late, after the last trains, when the taxi queue crawls, or you're jet-lagged with big luggage and simply done problem-solving. Private transfers to central Seoul typically run about $75–100 per vehicle (October 2026), driver waiting at arrivals with your name on a sign.
Third: airport limousine buses, ₩17,000, worth it when one stops near your hotel — 6015 for Myeongdong, 6002 for Hongdae, 6009 for Gangnam Station (6006 for Apgujeong and COEX). Landing late? The N6002 night bus runs to Hongdae (₩18,000). Ignore any taxi tout who approaches you inside the terminal — the regulated ranks are outside.
T-money and the subway
The subway is the answer to nearly every transport question in this city: ₩1,550 a ride with a transit card (₩1,650 for a single-journey ticket, plus a ₩500 refundable deposit), a little more for long trips, trains every few minutes, English signage everywhere, and service until around midnight. Buy the T-money card at a convenience store in the arrivals hall — CU, GS25 or 7-Eleven, about ₩3,000 for a standard design — and load it with cash: top-ups at store tills and station machines are cash only, so keep some won on you (start with ₩20,000). It works on subways, buses, most taxis and at convenience-store tills. One card per person; kids' cards get discounted fares. You can't tap a foreign Visa or Mastercard at the gates yet.
Riding a lot? The Climate Card tourist pass gives unlimited Seoul subway and city-bus rides: ₩5,000 for 1 day, ₩8,000 for 2, ₩10,000 for 3, ₩15,000 for 5 and ₩20,000 for 7, plus about ₩3,000 for the card. It starts on the day you charge it, and it does not cover the AREX to or from Incheon Airport (only Seoul Station–Gimpo), the Shinbundang Line or buses outside Seoul. Since March 2026 the newer ticket machines at 273 stations sell it, and single tickets, to foreign Visa and Mastercard holders (with a fee of about 3.7%). If you'll average three or more rides a day over several days, the pass usually wins.
Now the thing nobody warns you about: Google Maps still can't give reliable walking or driving directions in Korea (as of October 2026). Korea approved Google's request to export detailed map data in February 2026, but turn-by-turn navigation hasn't launched and Google hasn't given a date. Install Naver Map (best English support) or KakaoMap before you land and use them for everything: subway routing with exit numbers, walking turns, bus arrivals. Every itinerary on this site assumes you can follow a Naver exit number.
Taxis fill the post-midnight gap: base fare ₩4,800, with a late-night surcharge of 20–40% between 22:00 and 04:00, and most daytime trips inside the center come in under about ₩15,000. Meters are universal. Book through Kakao T (or Kakao's foreigner app, k.ride), which takes foreign cards and skips the language negotiation entirely.
Rather book it?Seoul hotels on Agoda ↗
Data: eSIM before you fly
Buy an eSIM before you leave home — it installs in five minutes from your sofa and comes alive the moment you land, which matters because your first hour in Korea (AREX tickets, Naver Map, messaging the hotel) is exactly when you need data most. Airalo's Korea plans are all unlimited data: about $12 for 3 days, $20 for 5 and $29 for 7 (checked October 2026). Korea's mobile coverage is excellent, subway tunnels included.
The airport SIM counters work as a fallback — the mobile carriers' booths in arrivals sell tourist SIMs — but they cost more than an eSIM and you'll queue behind tour groups after a 12-hour flight. A phone without eSIM support is the only good reason to use them.
Money: cards, cash, tax refunds, no tipping
Korea is close to cashless: your foreign Visa or Mastercard works almost everywhere with a roof — restaurants, shops, convenience stores. The exceptions are exactly where you'll be hungriest and busiest: street carts and traditional market stalls, many still cash-only, and T-money top-ups, which are cash only. Carry ₩50,000–100,000 in cash for grazing at Gwangjang and the Myeongdong carts, and withdraw from ATMs marked 'Global ATM' or showing Visa, Mastercard, Plus or Cirrus logos — most bank branches and many convenience stores have one, but not every machine takes foreign cards.
Tax refunds: shops with 'Tax Free' signs refund VAT when you spend ₩15,000 or more in one store. Many refund on the spot — for purchases up to ₩1,000,000 each and ₩5,000,000 per trip — and you can claim the rest at the airport. Bring your passport when you shop.
Two habits to delete on arrival: tipping (none, anywhere, ever — it causes confusion, not gratitude) and haggling (prices are prices, markets included). Budget anchors for a mid-range day: ₩10,000–15,000 per casual meal, ₩15,000–25,000 for a market dinner graze, about ₩6,000 in daily subway fares. Then go spend the savings on the food worth planning around.
Holidays that close or crowd things, Oct 2026 – Sep 2027
DMZ sites close on Mondays, on public holidays that fall on a weekday, and on Seollal and Chuseok days. The National Museum of Korea closes on 1 January and on Seollal and Chuseok days. If a holiday lands on a Tuesday, Gyeongbokgung opens and closes on the next non-holiday day instead. Seollal and Chuseok are Korea's two big family holidays — book intercity trains and buses early and expect some family-run restaurants and shops to close.
| Date | Holiday | What it means for you |
|---|---|---|
| Sat 3 Oct 2026 (+ Mon 5 Oct) | National Foundation Day | Monday is the substitute holiday |
| Fri 9 Oct 2026 | Hangeul Day | Weekday holiday: no DMZ tours |
| Fri 25 Dec 2026 | Christmas | Weekday holiday: no DMZ tours |
| Fri 1 Jan 2027 | New Year's Day | No DMZ tours; National Museum of Korea closed |
| Sat 6 – Tue 9 Feb 2027 | Seollal (Lunar New Year) — the day itself is Sun 7 Feb | DMZ closed 7–9 Feb; National Museum closed on the 7th; Gyeongbokgung open Tue 9 Feb, closed the next day instead |
| Mon 1 Mar 2027 | Independence Movement Day | Falls on a Monday, when the DMZ is closed anyway |
| Sat 1 May 2027 (+ Mon 3 May) | Labor Day — a public holiday since 2026 | Substitute holiday on Monday |
| Wed 5 May 2027 | Children's Day | Weekday holiday: no DMZ tours |
| Thu 13 May 2027 | Buddha's Birthday | Weekday holiday: no DMZ tours |
| Sat 17 Jul 2027 (+ Mon 19 Jul) | Constitution Day — a public holiday again since 2026 | Substitute holiday on Monday |
| Sun 15 Aug 2027 (+ Mon 16 Aug) | Liberation Day | Substitute holiday on Monday |
| Tue 14 – Thu 16 Sep 2027 | Chuseok — the day itself is Wed 15 Sep | DMZ closed all three days; National Museum closed on the 15th; Gyeongbokgung open Tue 14 Sep |
2027 dates per Korea's official 2027 calendar (published June 2026); substitute days per published 2027 calendars. Opening days for anything not named here vary — check before you go.
The arrival kit
Three bookings that remove the three classic day-one failures: the taxi queue, the dead phone, and the luggage dragged through a palace.
Before you fly
The unglamorous tab: insurance you hopefully waste, flights worth price-checking, and the hand-it-all-over option if Seoul is one stop of several.
FAQ
Do I need a visa or K-ETA for South Korea?
Through 31 December 2026, citizens of 22 countries and territories — including the US, UK, Canada, Australia, Japan, Germany and France — can visit without a K-ETA. Not every EU country is included (Ireland, Portugal and Greece aren't), so check k-eta.go.kr if yours isn't listed, and again if you're traveling in 2027. Either way, if you don't hold a K-ETA, file the free e-Arrival Card online in the three days before you land.
Do I need cash in Seoul?
A little. Cards work in effectively every business with a roof, but street carts and many traditional market stalls are cash-only — and those are the meals you came for — and T-money top-ups take cash only. ₩50,000–100,000 covers a trip's worth of market grazing; withdraw from ATMs marked 'Global ATM', because not every machine takes foreign cards.
Is the Seoul subway safe late at night?
Yes — it's among the safest metro systems anywhere, at any hour it runs, for any traveler including solo women. The real constraint is the clock: last trains leave around midnight (Naver Map shows the exact time for your station). After that, Kakao T taxis are metered and honest, with a late-night surcharge.
What taxi app should I use?
Kakao T — Korea's main taxi app. You can register a foreign Visa, Mastercard, JCB or Amex card (no Korean phone number needed), and it shows the fare and route, which kills the language barrier; Kakao's foreigner app k.ride works too, and Uber also operates in Seoul with a smaller fleet. Street-hailed taxis are fine and metered; just avoid unmarked 'taxi?' touts at the airport and outside clubs at 02:00.
Can I get by with English?
Yes, with patience. Subway signage, announcements and ticket machines are fully bilingual; younger Koreans in tourist areas manage well; taxi drivers and market grandmothers mostly don't. Papago (Naver's translation app) plus pointing covers the gap, and menus in tourist neighborhoods almost always have photos.
Do you tip in South Korea?
No. Not restaurants, not taxis, not hotels, not guides — service charge is either included or genuinely not wanted, and leaving bills on the table causes confusion. When unsure, don't.
How many days do I need in Seoul?
Three is the honest minimum — palace, markets, Hongdae and the DMZ without sprinting, per our 3-day itinerary. One long layover day works with the 1-day triage. Five days adds the eastern day trips and a real food day.